Bundi

Only in India can two Backpackers on a humble budget afford to stay somewhere so beautiful as The Dev Niwas Heritage Hotel. Once a Haveli, the building has been lovingly restored to its former glory, and whilst lavish, it retains the tasteful charm one would expect from such a place.

We stayed out of season and therefore were able to barter a room down to R500 per night. Although small, the room was perfectly formed, dripping with character, cosy as home and cleaner than most. We were invited by the owner to explore the rest of the hotel and we did so excitedly. Including Wedding Suites, Dev Niwas has many spectacular rooms situated around a beautiful courtyard. It has a wonderful terrace with amazing views over Bundi and is situated in a central location. The restaurant is excellent, both the service and the food are first rate. We felt most welcome and were looked after beyond all expectation. We were even entertained by the Manager who showcased his cheeky dance moves for us whilst we ate. The hotel is due to be reviewed in the next edition of the Lonely Planet Guide to India. Speaking from experience, we can certainly say that it is an affordable treat if you are planning to visit Bundi.

The main attraction in Bundi, and the principle reason why people visit, is to see Bundi Palace. It is a beautiful building which was left to rot before finally being leased to a private company. Some of the painted walls and ceilings have kept their vibrancy and this allows one to imagine the Palace in its former glory. There is a beautiful Garden which is well maintained and a room which is decorated with peacocks and depictions of Lord Krishna.

As you may already be aware, we love Chai Tea (in truth, being from the North, we just love Tea, but in India this happens to be of the Chai variety) and Bundi is home to the self proclaimed but popularly recognised 'Best Chai Seller in India.' Krishna has been running his Chai stall for years and in that time has collected letters, cards, paintings and photographs from customers around the world all raving about his Chai. On meeting Krishna you are quick to see why people hold him in such regard, he has a kind smile, warm laugh and a mischievous charm that few could resist. His Chai isn't bad either, in fact, its beautiful. Made with Cinnamon, Clove, Massala, Cardamon, Black Pepper and Ginger it is a wonderfully spicy blend that leaves you firmly refreshed. Understandably Krishna is very proud of his trade and swears that his heady mix of herbs and spices has holistic qualities which will help to heal bodies and soothe minds.

Krisha asked us to return that evening for a Lassi which he proclaimed would give us 'The Power of Shiva.' Apparently it is a drink he will only make once the sun has gone down. Obeyingly we returned and Krishna served us with a frothy Lassi designed to make us strong and help us sleep. Like his Chai, the Lassi was deliciously spicy. It was made with Buffalo Milk and therefore was extremely rich. What we did not know, but later found out from Dev Niwas, is that Krishna's Shiva Lassi contains an ingredient that is a derivative of Cannabis and is otherwise known as a Bhang Lassi. These Lassi's can be quite dangerous and tourists are advised to avoid them. Krishna's promise of good sleep suddenly felt less holistic. We had a long bus journey ahead of us and were initially a little worried about the effect the Lassi might have. Luckily we were fine and Krishna was quite correct, drained from all that power we slept until late afternoon the next day.

We decided to visit Bundi because it is one of the towns in Rajasthan which is off the travelers trail. Unlike neighbouring places it offers a lot without asking for much. It is not saturated by tourism but we expect that this will change. Bundi is certainly worth a look if you are planning to visit Rajasthan.